Paradise Island - St. Lucia
One of the most wonderful travel experiences I have had as of yet. We were fortunate enough to meet and get to know many of the locals and fellow travelers, all of whom greeted us warmly and hospitably. The south western coast of Saint Lucia is an area that thrives off the vibrant energy of those who live there. These people live simple and happy lives; they paint their houses bright, welcoming colors, welcome mango and papaya trees right by their front door, and always have a shimmering smoke tail rising from their barbecue along with a scent I can only describe as Caribbean.
During our stay in Saint Lucia, we stayed with a wonderful family originally from France who are hoping to create a more sustainable form of tourism on the island, combatting the resort dominated tourism found in the northern part of the island that is drifting south. They hope to encourage the liaison between tourists and the local culture and people. The best way to explore this island is to immerse yourself completely in it. On our first night in Villa Papai we were greeted by their four excitable and loving dogs and neighborhood kids playing games in the yard. We were shown the expansive garden in the back where a happy and fulfilled gardener tends to the plants as if they were his own children, prideful as he does his piece in sustainability. We spent hours with him, discussing the sheer amount of different species growing in the backyard, having him explain each vegetable or fruit's intricacies, what they're used for, and how to harvest them. James and I were absolutely thrilled. Along with your normal fruits and vegetables were were able to see almond trees, avocado, fresh peanuts (much like a legume), banana trees, plantain trees, Caribbean fig bushels, cocoa plant, breadfruit, mango trees, pomegranate trees, giant aloe plants, wax apples, star fruit trees, guava trees, and many many more. We loved their sustainable attitude and pure love of the earth and what could grow out of it. The direct relationship they had with the soil, with the understanding of where their food came from and how to grow it was so integral into their lives whereas, in the US, we forget that food once came from the ground because we only see it in the supermarkets. It's another experience entirely to arrange your dinner plans around what produce has been growing in the backyard as of recently.
We enjoyed our time in St. Lucia by hailing down the local van "buses" between Laborie and Vieux Fort as well as trying our hand at hitch-hiking which proved to be an easier way to manage the island as everyone was willing to lend a helping hand in the heat. We loved the care-free and positive island tune that seemed to fill the streets and couldn't get enough of the food! We were able to scavenge for mangos right on the side of the road and couldn't get enough from the hundreds that had fallen from the massive mango trees at the Balanbouche Estate. We also enjoyed all the fresh fruit from our Airbnb and the delicious breakfast they fixed us on the first morning. We had the most beautiful open air kitchen to our disposal which we used to cook breakfast every morning - the dogs would come join us the second they smelt anything hit the frying pan - and even dinner a couple of nights.
We were in paradise! We visited the beautiful black sand beach in Balanbouche, which was empty every time we went, and we were able to soak in the sun and play in the waves for hours uninterrupted. We visited Laborie and tested out small artisan shops as well as basking by the beautiful blue bay. If you're careful enough and can follow a scent, you can always find a little house cooking up some kind of fried bread en mass and will always sell you some for a good price. Laborie also had a wonderful food festival with plenty of music and an abundance of barbecue. We tried almost every stand including chicken, pork, and fish accompanied by mashed potatoes, cole slaw, pasta, and each with a specialty sauce.
We also hiked around the Balenbouche Estate, an abandoned sugarcane plantation turned guesthouse, owned by the Lawaetz family. We had a lovely time exploring the plantation, which has an old era charm about it with beautiful ponds with lily pads, large, charming trees, banana trees, and little paths that lead down to the ocean. The best part? The dogs will follow you everywhere, and most of the times, they'll even lead the way and hop in the ponds to cool off along the way. The property is beautiful, including the sugarcane mill with is shaded by lush rainforest and sits quietly beside a creek like an forgotten piece of history. Beside it rests a twisted yet majestic tree which never gave up its stance to the plantation and has remained with it all this time. Uta Lawaetz was kind enough to point us around the estate and speak to us about her work here in St. Lucia. We came for breakfast the next morning and returned again a few days later for a lovely vegetarian focused meal prepared by her daughter.
The best part about this area in St. Lucia - it's all untouched. We barely saw another tourist around and hardly any locals either. All the beaches we went to, the Devil's Bridge waterfall we visited, crafts stores, and towns we visited were sleepy and quiet. The Devil's Bridge waterfall was a beautiful timid creek you could walk along shadowed by masses of bamboo forest that echoed the running water gurgles. Small pools of calm waters were plentiful as well as many mango trees on the route back up.
We also hitch-hiked our way up to Soufriere where the tourism was a much larger industry. We hiked our way over to Sugar Beach, which turned out to be a much harder and longer hike than anticipated. The Sugar Beach Resort is beautiful however, with stunning views of the Gros Piton jutting out of crystal blue waters. We haggled a water taxi back to the port and including a 40 minute snorkeling excursion and Piton beers. The boat driver took us to a little protected pay where we dove and flippered about in the water to our hearts content all with the graceful Gros Piton looming above. We found a local bus passing by Balenbouche and paid about $0.50 for a ride back. That night we walked to Piaye, a small village near Balenbouche where we wandered around for about 5 minutes before being flanked by three little girls, giggling. The showered us with questions and we strained to understand them with their deep Carribean accents. They showed us the beach where we watched the sun go down and told us all about their school, their friends, what the wanted to be when they grew up, like talking to any other 9 year old girls. They shared with us what they loved about their country and with large eyes asked us about what life was like in "America". We spent the entire evening with our friendly little tour guides as they showed us all their favorite places and took us to their aunt's hidden backyard barbecue stand for wraps. As a thank you, we bought them all one as well. As we walked through the streets, they stopped all the passing cars to tell them they were "hanging out with white people!". We dined happily at some of the quiet picnic tables and the little girl's jumped at the chance to play with my hair. After exploring Piaye and becoming exhausted from conversation, we bid adieu to the girls and retired back to our homely mosquito nets. We set up the hammock outside, and enjoyed the peaceful quiet or the night.
We made sure to visit the sulphur and mud springs! This is very close to Sugar Beach. Upon entry, you enter a small bathing area where you can relax in a naturally heated pool and then lather yourself up in dark and light clay mud. I painted a moon and stars on James and he painted a sun on me. Afterwards, you wash the mud off in the mineral rich heated spring waters and you will definitely feel a new softness to your skin. Another day we managed to snag the right bus heading to the Gros Piton! We were able to rent a car from a local for a couple of days, so we figured we'd make the most of it. It was James' first time driving on the left and it took him a while, but he definitely got the hang of it and I was always there to remind him once he started to stray to the right. We weaved our way through the beautiful hillsides of Saint Lucia which varies from dry to lush as the altitude increases. Farmers with crops and livestock are often spotted passing through these roads. It's a beautiful trip to make and especially from the comfort of a car! Once you arrive at the Gros Piton, you have no option but to hire a guide. We're pretty avid hikers when we travel, so we disliked the notion of having to hire a guide for a well marked trail. However, our guide was a wonderful 17 year old Saint Lucian student, so we figured, it's worth the price especially if the money is going to students and supporting the locals of Saint Lucia. We opted for a fast pace and our guide particularly enjoyed being able to pass his colleagues with their much slower tourist hikers. We made it to the top in a little under an hour and found a little hut selling fruit and beer. Naturally, we purchased a couple beers and continued to the look out point to enjoy the spectacular view with a Piton in hand. On the way back, our guide challenged us and we ran the whole way down - passing people that had been going down as we had been going up. We leapt from rock to rock and he really challenged our agility, but we managed to get back down in about half an hour. Exhausted, we were all ready for some sour sop ice cream they were selling at the base. We also encountered Sprite, a small dog with very stubby legs which we learned was essentially their trail dog! He enjoyed climbing the mountain with the groups as well and managed quite well with his stubby legs.
After finishing the hike, thanking our guide, and reluctantly saying goodbye to Sprite,we hopped back in the car for a short ride to another trail which would take us down to this beautiful beach which we believed to be called Anse L'ivrogne. We asked a man chopping wood down in the forest while watching out for a tiny kitten for directions and he pointed us to a forested trail that eventually opened up to the beautiful beach. We soaked up the sun and played in the calm waters of the bay before returning. Along the way we passed by a natural stream to grab some drinking water & played a bit with his kitten. On the drive back, we sat silently and absorbed the radiance of the sun on the grasslands through the hills and watched the glint off the windows of the small huts. The Gros Piton jutted out on the background but the sun's luminosity stole the show. The golden shimmer that lifted from everything it touched made it just a little bit magical. The breeze touched the grasses and leaves in the tree, the bells around the goats' neck chimed with the wind, and you knew in that moment, Saint Lucia was being touched by magic. It was beautiful.
We found a small crafts store along the way back which focused mainly on grass weaving. They showed us throughout their fabrication process (all done right there) and the variation in baskets, bowls, and decorative weavings. Alongside the tour came their lovely dogs, eager for all the attention they could get. The crafts were lovely and sturdily built, so naturally, I purchased a small basket (which I still use to this day!). With a mission for food, we hopped back in the car and drove towards Laborie and passed by "Martin's Seafood Restaurant," Something we had passed by many times, but it had never appeared open. We decided to stop and check it out. It's a small white shack which also doubles as Martin's house with a bar looking into his kitchen and a couple of barstools. The chickens and ducks walk freely around his yard and the dining table is a picnic table outside which is half filled with french goods (most definitely purchased and brought back from Martinique). We inquired about dinner and he informed us that, naturally, he must be given notice a day in advance if we'd like to eat there because of the preparation. Rather, he offered us a drink and we asked him if we would be able to return the next day for dinner. Martin is a delightful man full of stories and wisdom. He brought us a couple of Pitons and sat down next to us at the outdoor table. He happily opened up about his thoughts and experiences in his homeland and gave us many a life lesson along the way. After a couple of hours of good conversation and hospitality, we said until tomorrow and parted ways. We ended up visiting another favorite of ours, L'escape. It's quite close to the Balenbouche estate and really the only restaurant over there. It had really delicious food - we ordered almost everything on their menu as we went twice - and always enjoyed it. It also comes at a very affordable cost and has a really wonderful atmosphere. The wait staff are incredibly friendly and always there to lend a hand.
The next day we visited Laborie, a small fishing village with a blue bay circling the coastline. We visited a couple of craft stores where we learned some of the older traditions of Saint Lucia, including the proper way to style your hat to indicate relationship status. We walked around the town and bought some groceries for breakfast and plenty of fresh bread and pastries. On the way back to the beach, we smelt a delicious frying scent coming from a small separated kitchen belonging to a house along the side of the road. We veered to the right to follow the scent and saw a small scale production line of three family members making fried stuffed dough balls. We ordered one of everything and happily set on our way to the beach after dropping off the groceries in the car. We were visited by plenty of loving beach dogs all looking for a pet and a little human companionship. We devoured the stuffed fried breads and relaxed on the sand. The Laborie beach is beautiful to visit. Palm trees line the strip of sand and the blue water quietly laps up the shore. Men can be seen climbing coconut trees for their catch of the day and locals are barbecuing under the shade of the palms. Small fishing boats are strung up to the palm trees and you can even find a swing to enjoy if you walk far enough. It's a great place to enjoy the quiet pace of life and sit back.
We headed back to Martin's that night for our prescheduled dinner. He recognized us and happily brought out his concoction - salt fish (shown above)! a shredded fish that's seasoned and cooked with some cabbage like vegetables. The fish was tender and delicious, like no fish I've ever had before. It was served with a fresh salad of lettuce and tomatoes, and alongside some of my favorite tropical finds - breadfruit! Breadfruit is very starchy and somewhat similar to a baked potato, but drier. His food was all made with fresh ingredients from his own garden or local gardens. He believed in cooking fresh and healthy, which we very much appreciated. We spoke with him for another couple of hours after having eaten before thanking him for the meal and heading back to our Airbnb.
Saint Lucia has so much to offer. Because the southern part of Saint Lucia is relatively undeveloped with tourism, it's much easier to develop more meaningful relationships with the locals as opposed to relationships stemming from an exchange of money. The raw beauty, hospitality of the people we met, and their efforts to maintain their way of life is inspiring and one of the best parts of traveling. We tried our best to support the local tourism and enjoy the natural untouched beauty of the island. We learned so much about their culture and their relationship with the land they grow their food on and how to be so self-sufficient. This is what traveling is about and I'm so happy Saint Lucia was there to show me how to do it.
